The school is in the mountains up a winding highway. I got a ride at some point to within a few
miles of it and started walking. Not
many vehicles passed. No one
stopped. I’d had pretty good luck up to
that point, and it was probably mid-morning when I caught sight of the school
buildings. For some reason I didn’t do
more than just stand there and look at them and think about the first few
volumes I had read. At the time I think
only a couple had been published. I
hiked on up the road.
An hour or so later I crested the rounded top of the
mountain and started down. The sun was
west of me then but still high in the sky, and I could see gathering
clouds. I knew I needed to get farther
north and west, always west. No one
stopped for quite a while.
Eventually I got the classic hitchhiker’s ride. A beat up old two-ton truck pulled up in
front of me. If it had ever had paint,
it was all simply rust then. The tires
looked like ring baloney skins. The
sideboards were combinations of one-by-sixes and plywood and held a
miscellaneous load of five or six kids—two human, the rest goats—a few bales of
moldy hay, various pieces of machinery I don’t recall too well, and a dog of
dubious heritage that wasn’t sure about me, either.
The driver was an old woman right out of a Grant Wood
painting, bonnet included. Four more
children of various ages occupied the bench seat in the cab; not one looked to
be older than about ten, and one held an infant in her arms. Granny smiled an almost toothless smile and
asked me where I was headed. I explained
I was eventually bound for Missouri but would appreciate any help in that
direction. She spit a black stream of
tobacco juice over the top of the broken side mirror and told me she’d get me
another forty miles or so. After
thanking her profusely, I threw my pack on and jumped in back with the kids.
The dog eventually warmed up to me. I’ve always had a way with canines. The goats were tied to the back on short
ropes. The two children, a boy and a
girl maybe six years old, were silent in their shyness until I rummaged through
my pack for my lunch and gave them a Hershey bar to share. They quickly devoured the chocolate while I
went through a package of peanut butter crackers and an apple. We watched one another for a while, and then
I settled down to take in the scenery.
It was pleasant enough despite the bleating of the goats and the bumpy,
springless ride. I’d put up enough hay
and spent enough time in barns that the smells didn’t bother me. The Smokeys and Appalachians are
beautiful. Much different from the
Rockies—they seem older, more settled and maybe more secretive. I recalled the folktales from the Foxfire books I had read, and remembered
that some of my ancestors lived for a time in these hills up in the
Carolinas. Cemeteries back there are
full of stones with COX chiseled in the marble.
I wondered who these folk were.
It was a short ride, but it got me down the mountain and
into Tennessee. Since leaving the campus
at the University of Georgia in the morning, by the middle of that afternoon I
felt as if I had traveled back in time and returned. I still had miles to go before I could
sleep. The clouds were gathering.